10 thoughts on “Gaggia Baby Class Wiring

    • I don’t have a wiring diagram but it will be similar to the baby class. The major difference is whether you have a 110V or 220V version. The wiring tends to be complicated by the fact that Gaggia uses the boiler element to short circuit the heating indicator neon light. So when heating the light is off and when cooling it is on. Or, when at temperature it goes on. Voila! But it can be a head-scratcher working that out. What voltage are you on?

    • Man, I had to stare at that for quite a few minutes before working it out: it provides a path to mains neutral (blue wires) for the steam mode neon light (ST_LMP). This light will illuminate when the steam switch contacts 1 and 2 are open. This is not needed if the brew switch is also depressed but it is needed when that is not the case. It has to be a highish value resistor for the case when the steam switch is not depressed and contacts 1 and 2 are closed, at which point one end of the resistor is connected to mains live (orange wire).

  1. Do you figure there’s a way to rewire the front end with rocker switches or some other thing instead of the specialty push-button ones that nobody sells? Someone in the UK has them, but it will probably cost more than an entire good used machine to get them. I have the Baby Class with the lighted brew and steam push buttons like this one:

    I keep watching for dead ones to use for parts, but I’m coming up empty.

    • You definitely could. I don’t use the lights in the switches on my machine. They just tell you the status of the switch, which you can tell by looking at it. You’d need mains voltage switches that can handle 10A. One needs to be SPDT and the other DPST. Mounting them might be an interesting job. You’d have to mock up some kind of plate. If using plastic is has to be one that can handle over 70°C

      However you might be able to repair your switches. What is wrong with them? I vaguely think I have squirted contact cleaner into mine at some point in the past. I think they also can be taken apart which I might also have done but memory is not serving me well! If they are unusable you’d have nothing to lose in trying to repair them.

      • I’ve had them apart and cleaned once. Something about the connection is fritzy and creates a lot of carbon on the teeny tiny contact point. I lost a spring last time and a lever this time, so they’re done.

        Lucky, I found the switches under $20 at a popular espresso machine dealer, so I’ll give them one more try. Thanks for thinking about this.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *